The reasons why one cooks are simple. The reasons why one strives to master a dish is more complex. This is a story about Kurt’s grandma’s mac salad. This humble dish started me on the culinary journey that eventually brought me to Hei Hei. It was one of the first recipes I developed on my own- it was a lesson on cooking through flavor instead of following a recipe. Memories, flavors, a little pettiness, and a lot of mayo, all mixed into this story.
Kurt loved his grandmother’s mac salad. So much so, she would make it specially for him if he was visiting. Kurt’s mom, Nancy, a correspondingly great cook, also makes an outstanding mac salad. When Kurt asked his grandmother for the recipe, her response was “there is none.” According to Nancy, her mom got most of her recipes from the Betty Crocker cookbook and a Better Homes and Garden cookbook. But no luck- the Crocker and Better Homes mac salad recipes were not the same as he’d remembered.
From Kurt’s memory there were definitely green olives, probably boiled eggs, and possibly relish. So I set out to try and replicate this superlative mac salad.
I was a little jealous that he loved this mac salad so much. Just a little. But really, the idea that Kurt could experience the same flavor that he experienced as a child, that connected him to his grandmother felt profound. To experience the same flavor would be in a way to not just remember, but to experience, to taste, something directly from his grandmother.
Son mat 손맛. This is a Korean term that translates literally to “hand taste”, and refers to the unique taste that a person brings to the food they make, and it connotes the love and care that goes into making food for others.
I never did nail the recipe. But along the way I developed my own mac salad.
I’ve never written down the recipe, but this is roughly what I do.
Boil the macaroni in salted water per the box instructions. Drain. While the noodles are still hot, drizzle some vinegar on them, any type will do. Also add a big pinch of salt and big pinch of sugar and toss in the colander and allow to cool.
Make the dressing. I use about a 4:1 mayo (Hellman’s of course) to vinegar ratio. Add a big dollop of mustard (like dijon). More salt, and more sugar, grind some black pepper in there. Taste and adjust seasoning. I like mine pretty vinegary.
Peel and grate 1 or 2 carrots. Celery and onion (red,white, or green, never yellow) are obligatory. So are pickles (any sort). For this batch I chopped up a bunch of Hei Hei bread and butter pickles, and sour corn. Plus some fermented ramps that I had in my fridge. Chopped herbs are also great. Mix it all together. Taste. Add pickle brine if desired.